1. You order or use your existing Cable, DSL, FiOS, Satellite, OC-3, T-1, or Tin Can Internet access, doesn’t matter what brand of access you have or where you are located geographically in the world. An Ethernet TCP/IP based LAN using IEEE 802.3 OR IEEE 802.11g OR IEEE802.11n is EXACTLY the same world over, London to Seoul, Oslo to Chicago, etc.
2. Your Internet Service Provider (ISP) sets up your Internet access and typically either rents or sells you a network bridge or network gateway device. They often refer to this as a “modem”, incorrectly.
Prices for residential “High Speed” Internet access vary from approximately $19 per month for low end DSL (128Kb/s up and down) to $200 per month for the fastest FiOS offered (15MB/s up and down) in selected areas by Verizon in the United States. Pay attention to whether the service you order uses KB or Kb. They are different. KB=Kilobyte Kb=Kilobit 1KB=8Kb
At this point you have what is commonly referred to as “Broad Band” or “High Speed” Internet access, all that means is it is not dial-up or ISDN.
Now you want to share your Internet connection with more than one system. Or you want to be able to carry your laptop all over the house and stay connected to the Internet as you roam the house and back yard. Or you want to be able to carry several laptops around in the house and have printers in closets without wires and computers in every room without wires.
I recommend you Print this page before you start. There may be times when you are unable to access the Internet once you start the following procedures.
1. Confirm that your system has a wireless adapter or get one and install it. It is a hardware device you can buy at CompUSA, Best Buy, Ebay or your favorite local computer parts store. Costs vary from about $20 for a refurbished 802.11g model to $80 for the top of the line 802.11n draft 2.0 types. You need one of these for each computer. USB type are better because you can use it with a laptop or desktop without opening the case to install it. You can also use one USB type with multiple computers at different times. USB type that are 802.11n Draft 2.0 that are Wi-Fi certified are the best.
2. Get a wireless router. I recommend the D-Link DiR-655. Cost is around $100 or so. Get D-Link n series USB wireless adapters if you get the D-Link DiR-655. The following isn’t a requirement, merely a suggestion. If you get a Netgear wireless router, get Netgear wireless adapters. They work BETTER together if they are the same brand AND Type.
2a. If you are setting up a WIRED LAN I recommend Netgear switches. I have a Netgear switch that is still operational after constant use and abuse for over twelve years.
3. Plug the wireless(or wired) router directly into the Cable or DSL network bridge via an Ethernet cable. DO NOT plug your computer into the Cable, DSL, Satellite or Tin Can network bridge. Plug your wireless router into it.
4. Unplug the electrical cord from your network bridge for 10-15 seconds.
5. Plug the power cable back in to your network bridge. Make sure the wireless router is ON and stays connected to the bridge during this time.
6. Check the network bridge for green lights.
7. Make sure that the properties of TCP/IP are set to Obtain IP address automatically, and obtain DNS automatically on ALL of your computers, printers, consoles and at the router.
8. Turn on or reboot your system(s).
Now you should be connected to the Internet with all of your computers.
If you can not access the Internet from every computer:
Attempt to log in to your wireless router via your web browser (internet Exploder or Firefox) by typing in (http://192.168.1.1/) This address may vary depending on the brand and model of wireless router you purchase. Check the manual for the default IP address and the username and password for your router.
Then log in (Admin and admin typically or leave blank and admin). Be sure to change the password to something of your own choosing that is LONG. I label the bottom of the routers I set up with the Username and Password using my P-touch labeler. I also label the bottom with the WPA2-PSK TKIP password. If you do this be sure not to cover the vent holes of the router with the label.
Enable DHCP on the router by following the instructions in the manual.
You only need one wireless router for you wireless LAN. One wireless router can accommodate up to 253 wireless computers. You can use combinations of wired and wireless routers together but typically one wireless router is sufficient for all your needs. In rare instances you may need a wireless router and a switch.
For additional SECURITY of your wireless network:
1. Change the admin password.
2. Change the SSID of the router.
3. Enable WPA or WPA2. WEP is less than useless.
4. Enable MAC filtering.
5. Enable SPI.
6. Limit the DHCP range to what you need.
7.After you have it all setup disable the broadcast of the SSID.
8. Disable remote administration.
9. Filter anonymous and incomplete packets ENABLED.
Once you have all that done. It's still possible for someone to hack your wireless router. It will just take hours of work to do, instead of seconds.
If this all seems too complicated, visit local.yahoo.com to find a wireless network specialist near you.
This is wireless networking for your local area network. There isn't a wireless Internet. We just have one, Internet….. it does have wires.
